Ambroisie アンブロワジー

this is the 5th hidemi sugino's recipe that i've attempted and i think i've put this off long enough. being too time consuming to make is one thing (it has 8 components in total including the decor) but i must say that glazing cakes hasn't been my forte and it still isn't. then again, this is the entremet that won mr. sugino the 1991 world pastry cup (coupe du monde de la pâtisserie) so could i possibly miss it? no i couldn't.

from bottom - biscuit joconde au chocolat, mousse au chocolat noir, framboise pepins, biscuit aux pistache, mousse a la pistache, glacage au chocolat

truth be told, i don't think i did such a good job on this. i thought the glaze was somewhat messy and the layers weren't really that identical to what was on the book but i must say the taste is AMAZING. i don't know how with all the chocolate mousse and glaze the entremet still tasted surprisingly light on the palate. the chocolate biscuit joconde is also the best joconde i've ever had, so moist and delicious. all in all, the components just complemented perfectly with each other and the pepins provided a nice tang and contrast to the sweet layers. definitely a keeper!

i made this in a span of 2 days. i don't think its possible to complete this in a day (unless you're really diligent), plus if you're making your own mascarpone and almond/pistachio paste to use in the recipe, you're definitely gonna need more time. ugh, and im still hatin' the glaze. if you think the purpose of the glaze is to hide any imperfections, think again. this one simply accentuates, but i must say it tastes quite good and the cake wouldn't be complete without it :)

finally, after a 3 mth long break in making entremets, i feel like i'm ready for more.



recipe source : le goût authentique retrouvé by hidemi sugino

ingredients (makes five 6.5cm (H) individual entremets) :

for the biscuit joconde au chocolat (makes one 8x12" tray) :

70g ground almonds

70g powdered sugar

70g egg yolks

30g egg whites

130g egg whites

45g caster sugar

55g cake flour

20g cocoa powder

25g melted butter, melted & cooled

for the biscuit aux pistaches (pistachio sponge), refer to my entry on the sicile here

for the framboise pépins (raspberry jam) :

70g caster sugar

15ml water

40g glucose syrup

200g frozen raspberries

8g powdered pectin

45g caster sugar

12ml lemon juice

for the pistachio mousse, refer to my entry on the sicile here

for the 30°B sugar syrup imbibage :

30ml syrup (made by boiling 32.5g sugar & 25ml water together), cooled & measure out 30ml

20ml water

15ml framboise eau de vie (raspberry liqueur)

for the mousse au chocolat noir :

220ml whipping cream, whipped

30g creme fraiche (i used mascarpone), recipe can be found on my homemade mascarpone here

25g caster sugar

50g egg yolks

100g valrhona 66% caraibe or alpaco dark chocolate, melted & cooled

for the glaçage au chocolat (choc lacquer glaze) *make this at the last step after the entremet has been assembled, chilled and removed from rings* :

75ml water

125g caster sugar

50g cocoa powder

75g creme fraiche or mascarpone

7.5g sheet gelatin, softened

directions :

1. to make the biscuit joconde au chocolat, combine powdered sugar and ground almonds in a bowl. add in egg yolks & 30g egg whites and whisk until pale and thick. sift cake flour and cocoa powder together and fold into the egg mixture. fold in melted butter. in another bowl whisk 130g egg whites and 45g sugar until stiff peaks, then fold in two together. spread mixture on baking tray lined with baking paper then bake in a preheated oven of 230C for 5-6 mins.

2. make the pistachio sponge.

3. to make the framboise pepins, combine pectin and 45g caster sugar in a bowl. set aside. in a saucepan, place raspberries, 70g caster sugar, water, glucose syrup and bring to a boil. turn off heat and add in the pectin/sugar mixture. stir well to combine, let cool and add in lemon juice. measure out 50g.

4.to make the 30°B sugar syrup imbibage, combine syrup, water & raspberry liqueur in a bowl. mix well.

5. make the pistachio mousse and pour it into an 15cm (6") square cake ring. chill in fridge until firm. trim and align the pistachio sponge and place it on top of the mousse, soak with syrup then spread with a thin layer of framboise pepins. chill until ready to use.

6. to make the mousse au chocolat noir, make the pâte à bombe by placing the creme fraiche/mascarpone and sugar in a saucepan. heat until the sugar has dissolved then whisk egg yolks briefly and add in the creme fraiche mixture. whisk until the yolks are thick and pale. fold in the melted choc followed by whipped cream.

7. to make the glaçage au chocolat, combine sugar, water & creme fraiche in a pot and heat until sugar has dissolved. add in cocoa powder and whisk until combined and until lumps disappeared. remove from heat and add in softened gelatin. strain and let cool until mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon. use immediately. if the glaze solidified too much before using, simpy reheat slightly.

8. to assemble, cut the choc joconde into 5cm rounds and cut the pistachio sponge/pistachio mousse/pepins stack into 5cm rounds as well. place an A4 size acetate sheet (or hard plastic/transparency) on a baking tray, then place mousse rings on the sheet. pour some chocolate mousse into the rings, chill until firm then place the pistachio sponge/pistachio mouse/pepins stack in the ring on top of the choc mousse. fill with more choc mousse until almost to the rim and place a piece of choc joconde on top. press in slightly, then repeat the steps for the rest of the other 4 rings. place another piece of acetate sheet on top of the mousse rings and freeze until firm. remove the acetate sheet, invert the rings and remove using a blowtorch. place them on a wire rack with a plate/tray underneath to catch the drips. pour the glaze on the cakes and decorate with choc petal decor and gold foil.